Serpentine Gorge - Quiet magic in the central Australian outback

Heading along Namatjira drive in the late afternoon sun, we had decided on a whim to head out of town to the quiet magic of the West Macs for some nervous system tonic.

The drive was stunning in golden hour, the wild heather, paper daisies and grass glowing.

Just as we were sinking into the escape from our daily lives, a giant old camel became visible on the road in front of us, glowing patches of fluffy hair on his neck.

Slowing down, we realised he was not planning to move. He stood there, chewing and stared at us as if playing chicken with the van. After a long few minutes of deciding what to do he seemed to decide we weren’t worth the trouble and walked slowly into the bush. Then in a huff, turned back giving us a long, disdainful stare.

I woke unusually early, before sunrise, slipped quietly out of the van and walked through the bush to the biggest tree, a makeshift ‘loo’. The world was quiet, and the faint glow of dawn was peeping over the ridge and spreading over the ancient land.

Arriving to Ormiston Gorge at dusk, a local favourite, we found it crammed full, its beauty overshadowed by crowds parked on top of each other in the small parking bay. Craving space, we turned around and headed back to Serpentine Gorge, the last stop we passed, now in the dark. We parked in a secluded spot, set up quickly, the darkness now cloaking us. Feeling softer, calmer, I exhaled, letting the quiet settle in and slept heavily for the first time in weeks.

With the first light, I laid out my rug on the ochre dirt. I moved slowly through my yoga practice, my breath syncing with the waking world around me, grounding deeply. Smudging sage, I set gentle intentions for the day, honouring the stories held in this country. I felt held somehow by the vast open space.

Boiling water on our battered little camp stove, I made a mug of black coffee, its steam rising in the still dark of the morning and its warmth grounding me as I wandered down to the gorge through dry creek beds full to the brim with wildflowers.

I found a smooth rock to sit and watch the wind dance in the gum trees in the early light, occasionally sending ripples glimmering across the pools. This place felt thick with spirit and a held a deep sense of magic as I sat quietly in awe watching the world woke up slowly around me. The first rays of the morning sun slowly lit the towering walls of the gorge, leaving a glowing warm ochre light that felt almost tangible around me.

After what felt like hours I had been transfixed in this beauty, the first hikers appeared along the Mac Donnell Ranges track. Expensive labelled adventure gear, walking poles and fly nets in place, walking with purpose along the rocky trail. I smiled to myself at the contrast, me in thongs, coffee in hand, unhurried and content. I must have looked as wildly out of place to them.

We nodded to each other, quiet reverence to this new shared secret.

Written with ♥ by Kelly