A quick escape to Rungutjirpa (Simpsons Gap)
I was having a really rough day recently, the kind where the tension just wouldn't leave my body, I decided to drive out of town for a "liquid lunch" (aka a latte!) just to breathe.
It’s an easy, 20 minute trip from Alice Springs on bitumen, which makes it perfect for a quick getaway. For a pretty drive, you can take the Honeymoon Gap loop one way on the way in or home. It is a favourite local scenic drive close to town.
I got there around 12:30 and almost turned the car around immediately. The car park was full of school buses and I could hear kids whooping and laughing, their voices echoing everywhere. It definitely wasn't the quiet sanctuary I was craving! But once I saw those massive rock walls, the wildflowers just starting to peep out from the rocks, and the water still lingering from the rain, my mind finally let go of the stress I’ve been carrying.
I’ve been dealing with a back injury and still doing physio, so I’m a bit mobility impaired at the moment. For some reason, I dared myself to walk in without my hiking stick. I made it, but honestly, I probably wouldn’t have tried if I’d remembered the track properly. It’s funny the things you overlook when they aren't usually an issue for you.
As I walked towards the gap, the sound of the kids ended up being more fascinating than annoying. The way the echoes bounced off the walls and travelled out was incredible. I just leaned against a big rock, watched the water rippling, and felt this huge sigh escape my chest. Even with the moody clouds, the water was glimmering. I was so glad I stayed.
Simpsons Gap or Rungutjirpa (pronounced rung-oot-jeer-pa) has been such an important memory for us over the years. It was the first place out of town my family visited. We had no idea it was a dry creek bed most of the year, and I still remember the disappointment on my kids' faces as they walked in with towels slung over their shoulders, waiting to swim in the 40 degree heat. That disappointment melted away once they were able to splash and play on the rocks in the shadows. Later, looking at photos of them playing there, we noticed a large shadow in the form of a perentie, and I eventually came to understand that this is an important Perentie Dreaming site right here for the local Arrente people.
It’s also where we took my Mum for Christmas one year. She was too unwell for the Uluru sounds of silence dinner under the stars we had planned, so we brought a white tablecloth and candles out to the picnic tables at dusk for a special picnic instead. The flies were so prolific at that time of the year the kids actually climbed the trees to eat their dinner! That memory has lasted over a decade, and just thinking about it makes us all laugh in tough times. Wear a fly net if you go outside of winter!
A few things to know:
Logistics & Safety: It’s a short drive, but bring your own water as there are no cafe facilities at the Gap. Be aware that you'll likely be out of mobile range once you're a few kilometres out of town, though there is an emergency hotspot at the site. Also, there is no swimming allowed here and the water can be stagnant.
Mobility: The first 1/3 of the path is flat, packed sand and fine for wheelchairs or aids. Then it gets rocky and uneven in patches with loose sand. The last bit to the base of the gap involves climbing over large rocks and thick sand.
Sensory: The sand is thick and coarse. On a high stress day, that grit in my sandals would be a total nightmare for me. I hate closed in shoes so I wore my Birkenstocks and was fine, but just be aware of the texture! There are flies most of the year until it gets colder, so take precautions, a fly net is the best option if this is going to distress you, bush flies are resilient to most bug sprays!
When to Go: You can easily do this alone or as part of a longer day tour through the West Macs. Personally, I love summer when the rocks are almost glowing red. If you want it all to yourself, it is best to go before 10:00 AM or after 4:00 PM for the golden hour.
The Gates: The rangers lock the gate at 5:00 PM sharp, so don't get caught!
Made with ♥ by Kelly
